We’re off to Sri Lanka for 18 days. Our last trip before our son turns 2 in October and we have to pay for him to fly. So therefor we’re making it worthwhile. It will also be our last travel as a family of three, as we are having a brother or sister on the way in February 2025 <3.
We are doing a night flight this time, hoping this means our son will sleep most of the flight!
Our Sri Lanka Itinerary at a Glance
After carefully checking the weather, as Sri Lanka has two distinct monsoons that hit the country at different times of the year and in different regions, we decided to visit north and middle. Our route will look as follows:
- Day 1: London – Negombo
- Day 2: Arrival in Negombo
- Day 3: Negombo – Sigiriya: Arriving at our Homestay
- Day 4: Sigiriya: Pidurangala Rock & Kaudulla National Park
- Day 5: Sigiriya: Temple of Dambulla & TukTuk through Sigriya
- Day 6: Sigiriya – Trincomalee
- Day 7: Trincomalee: Deer Park & Fernando’s Bar
- Day 8: Trincomalee: Temple Visit & Kanniya Hot Water Springs
- Day 9: Trincomalee – Pasikudah
- Day 10: Pasikudah: Dinner at The Kitchen Pasi Bay
- Day 11: Pasikudah: Coconut Cultural Park (highlight!)
- Day 12: Pasikudah – Nuwara Eliya/ Nanuoya
- Day 13: Nuwara Eliya: Tea Plantation, Lake Gregory, Stawberry Farm & Grand Hotel
- Day 14: Nanuoya – Kandy (by train)
- Day 15: Kandy: Visiting Markets & Temple of the Sacred Tooth
- Day 16: Kandy – Negombo (via Speive Garden & Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage
- Day 17: Negombo: Muthurajawela by Boat
- Day 18: Negombo – London
Day 1: Travel day – The start of 18 days in Sri Lanka with a toddler
We got to the airport a little early as we had some issues with our seating. Somehow the seats I selected were deleted and there were none available to re-book. In the end this turned out to be a good thing as we ended up with three chairs (instead of the two we paid for) and extra leg room seats. We had a night flight and after some initial refusal to sleep, our son eventually slept for most of the flight. Due to time difference we actually arrived in Sri Lanka on day 2, 12.45 local time.
Day 2 – Arrival in Colombo & Negombo
Upon arrival we had to pay for our Visa. Since 2 August 2024 you are unable to do this online so have to do it at the airport. Whilst young children mostly don’t pay for anything in Sri Lanka, we did have to pay for his Visa also. It was $150 for the three of us.
Landing at Colombo Airport – Transfer to Negombo, the ideal first stop close to the airport
After getting our Visa sorted and collecting our bags, we were greeted by our driver for the holiday, Mahesh. He kindly welcomed us with flower necklaces and got us each a Sri Lankan simcard for the holiday, which was included within our price when we booked our driver. We chose to book via Sri Lanka Personal Tour Drivers, based on a review from a friend and the quote they provided. I would 100% recommend using them as from the start the communication was great, and they were incredibly helpful answering any questions we had prior to and during our holiday. They also provided a car seat for our son which was definitely a must (they are not mandatory in Sri Lanka).
Mahesh drove us to our first hotel of the holiday, Hotel Sico in Negombo, where we will be staying one night before we go to Sigiriya. The hotel has a modern look, especially in the downstairs area, but the rooms were just okay. As it was only for one night and we were tired anyway we weren’t really bothered but I would probably not stay here again.
First Evening in Sri Lanka – a slow start after a long journey
We went out for dinner and for our first night chose Jhony’s Food. Due to (from my part!) misunderstanding of the menu we ordered way too much food!! Instead of a one person portion of Kothu, I ordered the family portion, which was HUGE! but very good. We also ordered devilled prawns with rice, the portion was enormous with many large prawns, and a chicken fried rice for our son. And each had a fresh fruit juice. The total came to £16 which was insane to us given the amount and quality of the food.
After food we walked back to our hotel and pretty much instantly all knocked out for the night.
Day 3: Travel to Sigriya
We started the day with a breakfast at the hotel, which was included. Either a plain or Sri Lankan omelette, fresh fruit, fresh fruit juice and toast with jam and butter. We agreed with our driver to leave to go to Sigiriya at 11:00.
We are extremely excited to go to Sigiriya, I have only heard amazing stories about this place and have so many things on our list we would like to do here. The drive takes around 3h10m. We asked our driver to stop for food on the way, but preferably somewhere not too touristy and with authentic food. We did end up in a really touristy place but the food wasn’t actually too bad. He took us to Saruketha By Oak Ray in Kurunegala.
Journey to Sigiriya – serene homestays and home-cooked meals
After we finished the food we drove straight to Sigiriya and arrived there in the late afternoon. On the way we saw our first monkeys, they are pretty much everywhere in Sri Lanka. We are staying at Darshani Lodge with Anu and his family. They were incredibly friendly and helpful and their grounds are stunning.
Anu was also kind enough to let us store some of our drinks and food in the fridge at their home, as the rooms do not have a fridge.
We booked the triple room with garden view and had one double bed (2 singles put together) and one single bed. The room was booked with breakfast included. All beds had a mosquito net and the room was simple but exactly what we needed as we were out and about most of the time during our stay.
We went out for dinner in the evening and tried Liya Restaurant on our first night. The food was great. My partner and I shared a home made chicken curry, which comes with loads of different small plates of vegetables, dhal and coconut sambol (I loved this so much!). Our son played with the son of the owners for most of the evening. They both had a great time chasing each other.
Day 4: Changing landscape & Wild elephants
Pidurangala Rock at Sunrise – splitting activities while traveling as a family
My partner started the day by climbing Pidurangala Rock in the morning with our driver Mahesh. The climb would be too much for our son and he is too heavy to carry, so me and him stayed at the lodge (sleeping). They were leaving early in the morning (in the dark) as from Pidurangala Rock the sunrise is supposed to be beautiful and it gives a beautiful view of Sigiriya Rock. On the way to the rock they had to take a de-tour as a wild elephant was stood in the middle of the road and our driver said it was too dangerous to go around it.
After my partner came back from his climb, we started our day with a lovely breakfast prepared by Anu. There was so much food! We got a fresh fruit juice, toast with jam, omelette, coconut sambol, hoppers and some sweet treats. We are eating it whilst sitting at their lovely terrace enjoying nature and peace and quiet.
Kaudulla National Park Safari – seeing elephants in the wild
Today we are heading for Kaudulla National Park to see elephants. We drove close to the park where our car was swapped for a (safari) jeep to which we added our sons car seat so he could safely get on the safari with us.
It’s a short drive to the actual park, but to locate the elephants is a bit of a drive. Whilst driving our guide stopped to show us various other animals; different types of monkeys, eagles, kingfishers and foxes. After a – I think – about 20 minute drive we spotted our first elephant. It was roaming alone and our guide told us this must be a young male, as they leave the herd during their teenage years. At this time they must embark on a journey of self-discovery.
When driving on we saw a larger group of elephants, who would soon be migrating into the woods for the night. At first they were quite far away but eventually one large male came right next to our jeep. They are absolutely incredible to watch. The way they move, use their trunks and eat. It was definitely a highlight on our trip being able to experience seeing them in their natural habitat.
After admiring the elephants for some time we made the drive back to the main road. We were again greeted by some monkeys whilst driving through the park. When exiting the park the jeep had to take us back to our car which was about a 20 minute drive. All of a sudden our driver stopped and turned around because from a side road a very large male elephant came walking onto the road! It was amazing to see.
The elephant had a very strong smell and our driver explained it was musth. During this period male elephants are flooded with up to ten times as much testosterone than usual and their temporal glands swell up to the size of a grapefruit and they are noticeable due to an almost constant stream of urine that leaves a scent trail behind them
Dinner – an evening of fried rice and salad
Mahesh dropped us off at the lodge and after we rested for a bit and got changed we went out for dinner in the evening. We really wanted to try Kenoli Restaurant, but they were unfortunately closed. We therefore headed for Pradeep Restaurant. The staff here were lovely and even let us change our son in their private bedroom. The food was neither good nor bad, and I don’t think I’d go back here if I would ever visit Sigiriya again.
We ordered fried rice, chicken biriyani, cucumber and tomato salad and three fresh juices. Our son, as always, enjoyed his food as rice is literally his favourite food ever.
Day 5: Dambulla & Sigiriya Highlights
We started our morning with a lovely breakfast prepared by Anu. Each morning is slightly different but today we started with fresh fruit, toast, butter & jam, sweet treats and roti.
Golden Temple of Dambulla – one of Sri Lanka’s most important cultural sites
We will be visiting the Golden Temple of Dambulla, which has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1991 and is a sacred Buddhist site. It’s a little bit of a climb to the top, so my partner was kind enough to carry our son upstairs. We were greeted by some monkeys on the way and bought lotus flowers to gift in the temple. The view at the top is very beautiful.
To enter the temple you need to remove your shoes and both men and women need to cover their knees and shoulders. We rented covers.
Before we headed down, we took some pictures at the top. I don’t think the pictures do the view justice, as it really was beautiful.
On the way down we were again greeted by so many monkeys, they really are everywhere. Our son was walking himself, and the people who are working around the grounds told us not to let him hold any food whilst walking down as the monkeys would come and snatch it from him!
People in Sri Lanka are so friendly to kids. Everyone speaks to him and waves at him.
They also do all really quickly touch his hair.. At the start of the holiday he didn’t mind but at the end he started telling people ‘no!’.
We walked round with one of the temples Buddhists who told us all about the temples history. All three of us got blessed by a Buddhist tying a white string around our wrist. I was very surprised our son let this happen, as he normally doesn’t like having things around his wrist or neck. He is still wearing it now, as are we, as taking it off ourselves will bring bad luck.
We spend around an hour here, before we made our way back down.
On the way back to the lodge we stopped at a small bakery to pick up some snacks for lunch. We are never sure what to buy but so far nothing has been disappointing!
Tuk-Tuk Tour Around Sigiriya – villages, scenery, and slow travel
In the afternoon Anu kindly offered to take us for a tour through Sigiriya in his tuk-tuk. Our son has been admiring the tuk-tuks since the first time he saw them so he was super excited to finally get in one.
It was a lovely way to explore Sigiriya, when you don’t have multiple days to do so. On our tour we saw an elephant being washed in the river, we went to a viewing point overlooking the lake and Sigiriya Rock, drove via Sigiriya Lake and Mapagala Fortress, all whilst Anu told us about the area. He has always lived around here and knows it all. We stopped at various points and he pointed out animals and had to stop several times to let the cows pass.
Dinner at Akash Restaurant Sri Lankan Food – the best meal of the holiday
As yesterday’s dinner wasn’t what we hoped we decided that we would try Kenoli Restaurant today, until Mahesh recommended us going to Akash Restaurant Sri Lankan Food. This was honestly the best food we’ve eaten in Sri Lanka. It is a very small place, quite hidden and you will need a car to get there.
Upon arrival we were greeted by the owner and his family. They explained that all food they serve is grown on their own land, even the rice! Other than the drinks, we did not select anything we had that evening. The family prepare a very large selection of food that is all brought out at the same time, and everything was delicious.
We had a jackfruit curry, chicken curry, aubergine, pumpkin, beetroot, carrots, greens, coconut sambol, rice amongst other things.
<3
Our son played with the owners son for most of the evening kicking, what we thought were, balls. When leaving we found out they were wood apples. They gave us three to try ourselves. I would 100% recommend trying this restaurant and enjoy all the food that will be brought out to you, as well as talking to the owner and his family and learn more about what they do.
Day 6: Journey to Trincomalee
Today we are leaving Sigiriya to drive to Trincomalee, but first we are starting our day with a lovely breakfast prepared by Anu. Fresh fruit, string hoppers, toast and jam, coconut sambol, dhal and sweet pancakes. After finishing Mahesh picked us up to make the 1h52m drive to Trincomalee. Before we leave we grab three fresh juices on the way from Juice Topiya Restaurant & Juice Bar.
We will be staying in a beautiful Airbnb in Trincomalee, with the garden opening up to the beach. Villa 232 is in a non-touristy part of Trincomalee, with the garden opening on to Dutch Bay. This view is truly stunning and the home feels like a home away from home. Kasthuri welcomed us and brought us breakfast (choice between continental or Sri Lankan) every morning. She was always responsive and super friendly.
First Afternoon by the Sea – slowing the pace after sightseeing
We arrived in the afternoon and decided to just relax on the beach for the rest of the day. Our son played with the tub of water to clean your feet and me and my partner just relaxed on the chairs. In the evening Mahesh picked us up to go for dinner. We drove to the area around Uppuveli Beach where we decided to have dinner at Trinco Lanka. I ordered the giant prawns, my partner had the prawn curry and our son had a grilled tuna steak with potato wedges.
The food was amazing, super tasty and fresh fish and the curry sauce was great. After dinner we decided to go home as it had been a long day full of travelling and we could all use a good night sleep.
Day 7: Trimcomalee’s natural beauty and beaches
We started our day with an amazing, very large!, breakfast prepared by Kasthuri. She prepared the table and set the table outside for us to enjoy. Today we have loads of fresh fruit, yoghurt, milk, toast with butter and jam and Sri Lankan omelette.
Deer Park – shaded walks and unexpected wildlife
In the morning we are visiting Trincomalee Deer Park. Mahesh told us about it. I assumed it was a very large park full of deer, instead it was tiny, but full of deer. They are very tame and walk around, you can pet them too. It was very hot so they were mostly trying to be in the shade, like me! Our son liked them from a distance, but when they came too close he was not a big fan… Which seems to be a thing with most animals, only fun from a safe distance!
The busses in Sri Lanka are incredible! Most of them are airbrushed with beautiful art work. I don’t think pictures to them justice.
This is the view from our Airbnb garden. Amazing beach and super clear sea. We spent our afternoon here soaking up some more sun and relaxing whilst our son played with the water. It was good for him to have this playtime as he LOVES playing with water. Tonight we are heading to Fernando’s Bar to see the sunset and to be on time we need to leave our Airbnb by 5pm.
Sunset at Fernando’s Bar – beachfront views and relaxed evenings
When we arrived it was not really busy, but it was a lovely atmosphere. There are various places to have food around the bar (sushi, taco’s, pizza) and there is an ice-cream car (Isle of Gelato) selling great ice-cream flavours!
Fernando’s isn’t cheap and I would not go here every evening, but it was a nice experience for us, especially as our Airbnb is on a different beach, so it was lovely to see what Uppuveli Beach had to offer.
We spent a couple of hours here, having various drinks and snacks, and a walk on the beach. Our son was invited to sit on one of the jet skies that were parked on the beach, which he enjoyed. People are so friendly to kids, and he loves all the attention. He also loved running around on the beach.
When we got hungry we went for a walk to find a place to eat. After checking out reviews we settled for Chef Rider Seafood Restaurant. A very small restaurant with four tables out the front.
The people working here were lovely, super friendly. They showed us the kitchen where they prepared food and how fresh it was.
I didn’t actually take any pictures of the food because by the time it arrived we were so hungry we just dived in!
After dinner I was feeling a bit peckish and we decided to give Isle of Gelato a try. Mahesh came with us and all of us had an ice-cream. It was our first one in Sri Lanka and it definitely didn’t disappoint.
This was such a lovely day in which our son had time to play and run around, but we also managed to see how lovely Trincomalee is <3.
Day 8: Temples, seafood platters & hot springs
Today we started our day with another lovely breakfast prepared by Kasthuri. We went for Sri Lankan and got string hoppers, dhal, potato curry, Sri Lankan omelette, fresh fruit, yoghurt and toast with jam and butter.
Trimcomalee’s rich culture – visiting temples & hot springs
In the morning we will be visiting Shri Bhadrakali Amman Hindu kovil. This is a is a Hindu temple dedicated to the goddess Bhadrakali, a form of the goddess Kali Amman. The temple is stunning and has such an incredible amount of detail it’s really hard to put it all in a photograph. Both inside and outside there is so much colour and you can honestly stare at everything for hours and still discover things you hadn’t seen before. We left our son with Mahesh, as he was too loud and would ruin the peace and quiet inside the temple. To show respect it is best to cover your legs and shoulders when entering the temple, but make sure to bring a cover as you can’t rent anything at the temple.
After visiting the temple we decided to have a sit down lunch and we choose NINA Restaurant. It’s a small family run restaurant – I think most places we have visited so far are – and my partner and I ordered a huge and delicious fish platter. Our son had rice and prawns. We also ordered fresh juices.
After lunch we went to see the Kanniya hot water springs. This is a site with 7 hot wells, square in shape, with warm water (around 42 degrees). The wells aren’t very deep but deep enough to not let our son near them on his own. It was quite busy when we were there and everyone loved him and spoke to him. He had the best time getting all the attention as well as playing with warm water. I had to carry our son in as you can’t wear shoes when entering and the floor was extremely hot, due to the sun, where the ground wasn’t wet.
It is believed that the hot water in the wells is good for some skin deceases and has healing powers for Arthritis and Rheumatic disorder.
When walking towards the wells you pass a local market, mainly catering for tourists, selling all sorts of things from food to toys to accessories.
After visiting the hot wells and being in the hot sun for most of the day we decided to get back to the Airbnb to get ready for our last dinner out in Trincomalee. Mahesh is picking us up and driving us to the Uppuveli Beach area again. This time we decided to just walk around and randomly came across Pream Shack restaurant. There were no tables free, but when we asked for one they managed to get a table and chair from somewhere and create a space for us. They have the fish they serve on display laying on ice. The owner is super chatty and told us they had only recently opened. We ordered squid, fish, rice and potatoes to share and it was prepared with a really tasty sauce.
As this is our last evening in Trincomalee we decided to have another ice-cream from Isle of Gelato before we headed home for our last night in the Airbnb. Mahesh kindly joined us and we enjoyed the atmosphere around Fernando’s Bar whilst eating our ice-cream.
Day 9: Travelling to Pasikudah
Today we are having our last Sri Lankan breakfast prepared by Kasthuri. String hoppers, potato curry, dhal, Sri Lankan omelette, coconut sambol, fresh fruit, yoghurt and toast with jam and butter.
Drive to Pasikudah – a long journey along Sri Lanka’s east coast
After breakfast we are going to drive on to Pasikudah for 3 nights of relaxing in our only fancy stay this holiday. The drive will be around 2h10m.
Just before we arrived at our new accommodation we got hungry and decided to stop at Oasis restaurant for lunch. I had the most delicious fresh passionfruit juice here! We ordered a seafood rice, chicken rice and cucumber & tomato salad to share between us three. From here we only had another 5 minute drive to get to our accommodation.
Arrival & Rest – taking it slow after a full travel day
We are staying at Sun Siyam Pasikudah, an absolutely stunning and peaceful place. We added this to our holiday so our son can enjoy swimming, relaxing and running around for 3 nights. Upon arrival we were kindly greeted with a lovely fresh juice and were both asked to light a candle to be welcomed to the resort.
We booked the garden pavilion and the absolute highlight of this room was the bathroom. Firstly it was huge with a bath, shower and toilet, but also was half of the bathroom outside. The room itself was so incredibly comfortable and beautifully decorated. We loved staying here.
The pool area has a cute children’s play area with a mini kitchen, kids pool and other toys. Our son loved spending time in the mini kitchen. We enjoyed some time at the pool until we got our first heavy rain since being in Sri Lanka. We sheltered in the kids play area until it blew over and then decided it was time to get ready for dinner. Tonight we are having dinner at the resort – it was not included within the price.
Dinner was a set price for a buffet style (children eat for free). We enjoyed a large range of food, desserts and drinks. We had a pretty early night as we were all tired and wanted to be up early to enjoy next days breakfast (which is included) and a nice day at the pool.
Day 10: Slow Family Day in Pasikudah
We started our morning with the complimentary breakfast buffet. There is a good selection and we enjoyed the food. Today we are spending another day at the pool, relaxing and swimming. We decided, other than going out for dinner in the evening, we are not doing anything at all today, and this was a great decision.
Yesterday when our son tried to run into the pool he tripped, resulting into him refusing to get back into the pool. I was a bit worried we would not be able to convince him to come back in, but after some persuasion he loved it!
We had lunch at the resort, a Caesar salad for me, chips and chicken for our son and a burger for my partner. It was just a nice poolside meal and it was a plus that we did not have to leave or get ready to eat.
It’s been very quiet at the resort today. A lot of people have gone out on excursions for the full day. We didn’t go as we intended to use Pasikudah for relaxing and most of the things they are visiting already form part of our route.
Dinner at The Kitchen Pasi Bay – grilled fish, salad and fried rice
We are not having dinner at the resort this evening but instead decided to venture out to visit The Kitchen Pasi Bay. It’s an outside shack and van with loads of tables. It’s owned by a really chatty guy who speaks fluent German. It was just him and one other guy BBQ’ing the fish. The food and drinks took long to come because one of the employees who was supposed to work that evening didn’t turn up, but it was definitely worth the wait! We ordered three fresh juices, a large grilled fish with rice and salad and devilled chicken. The fish was so fresh and perfectly grilled. The whole atmosphere of the bar is lovely and a great place to spend the evening with some drinks.
We walked back to the resort, which is only a 5 minute walk from the restaurant. On the way we came across a lot of stray dogs. It was quiet a dark walk, but there isn’t much traffic so it didn’t feel dangerous at all.
Day 11: A day full of coconuts
We started our morning with another lovely breakfast in the restaurant at the resort.
Visit to a Coconut Farm – one of the most memorable experiences of our trip
Today we are going to visit Coconut Cultural Park. We read some negative reviews but decided to go anyway, and I am so happy we did! We absolutely loved going here and it was honestly one of the highlights of our holiday. We were shown round by Bandara who told us all about the various plants and trees that grow on the plantation – other than coconut trees – and also showed and let us try how all parts of the coconut are used. There is no waste!
The estate was started in 1848 by the English and at the moment consists of about 8,500 coconut trees. They are being replanted constantly as it takes over 10 years for a coconut tree to produce coconuts. They have a lifespan of about 60-80 years and will be taken down when they are too old. The new ones will then ‘take over’. I will try and give an impression with plenty of pictures, but would honestly just recommend going here!
The tour itself was not rushed at all, Bandara took the time to explain everything to us and also answer all of our questions whilst letting us try coconut (smoked, fresh, water and grinded), let us make rope and show all processes the coconut goes through.
We read about the coconut ice-cream they had on site and were so happy to see that the machine was working. It was honestly delicious!! So we each had two… It’s dairy free, which is a plus!
In the evening we had dinner at the resort. My partner choose a curry from the a-la-carte menu, whilst I had the buffet. Our son eats free from the buffet so he could join in with me.
Tomorrow we are leaving for Nuwara Eliya, it will be a very long drive so we are going to bed early, as we are leaving early. We are very much looking forward going here. Unlike where we’ve been so far, the temperature here will be much lower, around 20 degrees.
Day 12: Driving to Nuwara Eliya
After going for our last breakfast buffet we are picked up by Mahesh to make the 4h45m drive to Nuwara Eliya. We will be spending 2 nights here and have booked to stay at Cottage San Francesco.
**I lost all but one of my pictures of today.. so this will unfortunately be more of a written experience of our day.**
Driving to the Central Hill Country – cooler air and lush tea country
The drive up to Nuwara Eliya gets really pretty from the moment we start driving up in the mountains. Here it gets noticeably colder. We drive via various tea plantations and the scenery really isn’t disappointing. Our cottage is at the end of a very steep and long road even higher up in the mountains. At one point we were wondering if there would actually be something at the end…
The owners came to greet us at the entrance and showed us our room. We booked a deluxe double room and the room is very spacious. On the occasional moment that the clouds are not blocking, the view from our balcony is absolutely stunning.
After dropping our stuff at the Cottage we head into the town of Nuwara Eliya and visit Victoria Park and its very large (but old) play area. There is a small entry fee to enter the park.
Victoria’s Park – A play area in the milder climate & strawberries
Just at the moment we headed for the play area, a large group of school children also entered. Our son loved this, as he loves other kids, especially if they are older than him. The kids all seemed to really like him and came over to stroke him and invite him on the slide. One little girl even offered him a fresh strawberry, after that he made sure to keep following her in the hope more would follow.
The mild climate in Nuwara Eliya makes it an excellent place to grow strawberries, we will be visiting a strawberry farm here too.
After spending time in the play area we headed for the local fruit and veg market. We wandered round and got our son some fresh strawberries, whilst he also got free fruit from other vendors who noticed him. I’ve said it before and say it again, the people in Sri Lanka are so friendly, especially to young children.
It’s getting a little later now and we start to feel hungry. We decided to go to a place called Cool Land Hot Hut for food. I read about this on a blog and they were so positive I assumed it would be amazing. The restaurant is in a dark cellar, and honestly I think when we saw it we should’ve made the decision not to go… But we didn’t! We had food and fresh juice here and afterwards all were ill. Even though the owner is super friendly, I personally wouldn’t recommend the restaurant. I understand we are abroad and the standards aren’t the same, but this restaurant did not serve fresh food (it was all heated in the microwave) and it just wasn’t clean at all.
After dinner Mahesh picked us up to go back to our accommodation (he is also staying here) and have a good night sleep. Tomorrow will be a full day exploring all in and around Nuwara Eliya.
Day 13: A family day with a toddler in Nuwara Eliya
We start our day with the complimentary breakfast at the cottage, freshly prepared by the owners. It was amazing and so so much food!!
We got fried eggs, sandwiches with cheese and tomato, fresh fruit, fresh fruit juice, toast with jam and butter and French toast (which was so good!)
Tea Plantations – scenic walks and learning about tea production & Lake Gregory
Today we are visiting Damrook Labookellie tea lounge, Lake Gregory, Stawberry Farm Adma Argo and the Grand Hotel so we have a lot to get through in one day.
Our first stop is Damrook Labookellie tea lounge and factory. Our tour is done by a lovely lady who adored our son – and vice versa. She showed us the various processed the tea goes through before it’s ready to be used. She also explained the differences in process between black, gold, silver, white and green tea. They are all made from the same leaves, just a different process prepares them to become tea.
After the tour we head to the restaurant for tea tasting. The tea is free to try. We ordered two cakes with it, as it seemed wrong not to ;). The teacake they sell here (the light brown one on the top of the picture) is their specialty and it’s very tasty!!
Upon leaving the tea factory we headed for Lake Gregory. By this time the weather had gotten quite bad, rain and pretty cold. We still wanted to walk around the lake but when we were about 5 minutes in the rain got really heavy. We sheltered at the little food stands and while we were there got some food.
You can do boat tours on the lake, the picture shows one of the many boats that offer these tours. But the weather was just too bad for us to want to sit in a boat on the lake unfortunately.
After we finished our food we headed for the strawberry farm. Looking forward to a tour and some fresh strawberries. It turned out slightly different than expected, but we ate some pretty good strawberries so I am not complaining.
Sightseeing in Nuwara Eliya – Stawberry Farm & Grand Hotel
When we arrived at the stawberry farm, which was less than a 5 minute drive from Lake Gregory, it was still raining heavily. We went inside and asked if we could do the tour, but the people working there seemed a bit surprised. Our driver explained what we wanted and one of the girls took us to the greenhouse where they grow the strawberries. Pretty much all she did was let us in the greenhouse (which was very small) and then leave back to the restaurant. We roamed round for a couple minutes and decided it would be better to just enjoy some strawberries instead, which we did.
We ordered fresh strawberries, strawberries & cream, strawberry juice and strawberry milkshake. This was all very tasty, especially the juice was nice and sweet. There is a cute little souvenir shop at the back of the restaurant where we had a quick look. After enjoying the strawberries we headed for the Grand Hotel.
We initially went here to do a high tea, but since we already had food twice we were just too full to add more. We were going to have a walk around the stunning grounds, but when we arrived we were taken on a tour through the hotel. It was kindly offered by one of the doormen when we arrived and asked if we could see the gardens. The tour was great and it was amazing to see the hotel, it truly is stunning inside and outside and it was great to get some historical information about the hotel.
The grounds around the Grand Hotel are beautiful and you can just have a walk and enjoy the scenery. Even though we didn’t do the high tea, we were so happy we still visited the hotel and its grounds. It was also the perfect place for our son to run around.
After leaving the Grand Hotel we were done sightseeing for the day. Tomorrow we have our most exciting trip yet to look forward to, so we just want to grab food and chill in the cottage. Tonight we do not fancy curry – perhaps after yesterday’s experience we just weren’t ready yet – and therefore got take-away pizza’s from Pizza Hut. We collected them and ate them in our room whilst watching some tv.
We went to sleep early as tomorrow we are travelling by train from Nanuoya to Kandy and are very much looking forward to the experience.
Day 14: Nanuoya to Kandy (by train)
The day starts again with a very large, freshly prepared breakfast for us all. Like yesterday there is so much food and it’s all really tasty.
Our train is booked for 12:09, which means we should get to Kandy for around 4PM. You can find a train for your trip via this website. We had our tickets pre-booked. Second class with booked seats. We choose to travel second class as we wanted to meet locals on the train, but also wanted to make sure we had booked seats.
Our train was slightly delayed, which is normal for the trains in Sri Lanka. Our son loves any type of vehicle so was pretty excited to see the train coming in.
The most scenic Train Ride – passing through misty hills and tea plantations
We knew that the ride from Nanuoya to Ella is supposed to be the most beautiful (in the world..) but since we are not visiting Ella this time and still wanted to experience the train we decided to go from Nanuoya to Kandy and definitely don’t regret our choice.
The ride was both stunning and relaxing at the same time and I now can’t wait to come back and experience the other part of the route.
In the second class the windows are always open (you can close them if you want, but we didn’t as it made the experience so much better).
We all loved the train ride, and four hours flew by! Our son loved it and managed to stay awake for the first three hours and sleep for the final hour.
Mahesh drove by car to Kandy and was kind enough to take all our luggage, so we did not have to take this on the train which saved us a lot of carrying. We met him at the station and he drove us to our hotel. We are staying at hotel Yo Kandy.
Upon checking in the guy behind reception told us we got a ‘special’ room, the one in the top. Personally I feel like this room is only used when everything else is fully booked.
The room is tucked away between two offices on the top floor and was filthy. It looked like it hadn’t been cleaned in weeks. There was a small gekko living in our room (this is not a problem at all) which caused there to be poo stains everywhere that were not cleaned. The walls and floors were covered with it. Even after cleaning our room it was just left, as well as the dust everywhere.
The doors of the train, where we were sitting, were open. I was a bit scared at first with our son wanting to walk around and be near it, but he was only interested in looking out of the window.
Both my partner and I spend some time enjoying the view whilst standing in the open door. The fresh air and nice breeze were perfect.
We stopped at a lot of stations on the way to Kandy, and they always sell popcorn or other snacks at the station platform (next to your window so you don’t have to get out). We got some popcorn for our son, which he loved!
Personally this was my least favourite stay in Sri Lanka and I was so happy we stayed for two nights only.
Arrival in Kandy – nice dinner and settling in
We arrived late afternoon in Kandy, and went straight to the hotel. When it started to get dark we looked outside and first thought there were birds flying over. Upon taking a closer look there were hundreds of massive bats that were flying right above us!
Tonight we chose to have dinner at Licensed to Grill. We read about it online and there were a lot of good reviews. The restaurant has a beautiful interior, super minimalist with great furniture. You can either sit outside on a balcony or inside the restaurant, we chose the latter.
The staff is friendly and accommodating (they had no non-fizzy drinks and even went to the shop to ensure our son could have a drink, which was incredibly kind <3)
I ordered the cheese burger and my partner and son shared a grilled chicken. The chicken was lovely, they really enjoyed it. The burger wasn’t as great, it was quite tough meat.
Overall we did have a lovely first evening in Kandy and I would recommend this restaurant! Just not the burger.
Day 15: Exploring Kandy with a toddler
The hotel has breakfast included, so we start the day by going downstairs to enjoy it. There is a lot of choice from Western to Sri Lankan.
Today we want to just walk round Kandy and explore. We want to visit the local fruit, vegetable and clothing market, and also visit the Temple of the Sacred Tooth.
A day in Kandy with a toddler – visiting fruit, vegetable and food markets
We start the day by exploring the markets. My partner wanted to get fruit and vegetables to take home to the UK so we spend quite a lot of time finding exactly what we wanted.
Our son ran around the market and managed to get a lot of free fruit from all the stalls. I am sure he knows by now he can get things by just staring and smiling at people.
This is also the first time we tried tamarind and I LOVED it! We bought quite a lot to take home. The taste is so unusual but so good. We also took home starfruit, mangosteen, mango, green peppers and yellow passion fruit.
When walking through the market I wanted to check out a linen shop where I eventually bought two super relaxed trousers. Our son managed to get a wooden tuktuk out of it, which he is still crazy about today!
After visiting the market we had lunch at Hela Bojun Hala.
Hela Bojun Hala is a local food produce market which is run by women. There is little ‘stalls’ that all sell different types of food and drinks. There is a lot to chose from! When checking out the food our son managed to get himself a free sweet potato crisp. There was so much choice I got overwhelmed and told my partner to make the decision this time!
He came back with lovely food! A spicy (very!) sausage pizza and a vegetarian curry we all shared.
We did not feel like going out for dinner and preferred to stay inside and relax. We got a KFC take away and ate it in our hotel room.
Tomorrow we are driving back to Negombo via a spice garden and Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage. It’s going to be a busy day so it’s a good choice to take it easy this evening.
The food market was busy. There is an area for seating and we managed to grab a table to sit at together. After finishing the initial food I really wanted to try a mushroom snack – I can’t remember the name – so we got this too.
Temple of the Tooth – visiting one of Sri Lanka’s most sacred sites
In the afternoon we visited the Temple of the Sacred Tooth. Here you need to make sure to cover knees and shoulders when visiting and you will need to leave your shoes. We walked around with Mahesh who was able to provide us with some of the history of the temple. It’s absolutely stunning inside. We spend around one hour here before we headed back to the car to go back to the hotel.
Day 16: From Kandy back to Negombo
After having our breakfast Mahesh picked us up to make the drive back to Negombo for our last two days. On the way we will be stopping at a spice garden and at Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage, which I was so excited about.
Stop 1 – Susantha spice garden
Our first stop is Susantha Spice & Herbal Garden, which is a 44m drive from our hotel in Kandy. We had a guided walk around the garden, where we were shown all the various plants and herbs that are growing, and told about their (healing) power.
We started our tour with some herbal tea which, even though I am not a tea drinker, was very nice.
Our son was also a fan. He wants to try everything we eat or drink and genuinely will like it if he sees we will have it. After drinking the tea we walked around the spice garden and saw various plants and herbs and a giant squirrel.
At the end of the tour they give a short ‘presentation’ and we got a leaflet with all the products they sell and what they are good for. We got convinced to buy some products. I got a body cream, which I am actually very happy with, and my partner got coconut oil for his hair which seems to work well.
Stop 2 – Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage
When finishing at the spice garden we drove onto Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage, which is a 32m drive from the spice garden. This was something I had been looking forward to, but I unfortunately have to admit was a big disappointment. I didn’t like seeing the elephants chained up by their feet. Also, when asked why they were in the orphanage and not free, most were just there because they happened to be born there, not because there was a need. Lastly I didn’t like the keepers with their sticks poking the elephants to do what they wanted. This might be a personal thing, and I am sure many people will enjoy going here, but personally I loved seeing them roam free much more.
We didn’t stay very long, and when we got back to the car we saw the elephants come back from their river bath and watched them walk down the streets. Upon returning to the car we found out that our son had lost one of his sandals. Just at this moment it started raining tremendously… I ran to find it and within 5 seconds I was completely soaked, so returned back to the car… In the end my partner and Mahesh went to look for it and luckily found it.
We now start the last part of our round trip, back to Negombo. It’s a 2h drive from the orphanage to our hotel and our son napped most of the ride. We are not staying in the same hotel as our first night but instead were staying at J Leaf Hotel by Blue Bird. We booked a superior family room which had two double beds and a cot. The room was super clean, the beds big and comfortable and we were happy to spend our last two nights here.
We cleaned up and and went for dinner. After roaming around Negombo for a bit we settle for Sea View Restaurant where we all had a fresh juice. My partner ordered the prawn curry – which was absolutely delicious, I ate most of his curry sauce! – our son had rice and I had fried squid and prawns with rice and salad. The food was good, the owner super friendly and the setting lovely.
After finishing our food we walked back via a different route to see a little more of Negombo. We explored some small shops whilst slowly making our way back to the hotel. It’s again been a long day and tomorrow we want to get up early to do a boat tour, so it’s a relatively early night.
Day 17: A day in Negombo
Our last day of enjoying Sri Lanka we start with breakfast at the hotel. You can order what you want to eat – Sri Lankan or Western – and select how you like your eggs.
A boat tour with a toddler – wetlands, mangroves and fresh watermelon
Today we are doing Muthurajawela by Boat which is a boat tour service that offers boat tours covering the whole Muthurajawela wetland. It is just us three and Mahesh in our boat with a guide. He showed us the various animals that live in the wetlands (kingfishers, salamanders, monkeys, eagles etc) and the two different streams of water coming together.
We also stopped for some fresh coconut water and watermelon in a small part of the mangrove. We loved this tour, it was super relaxing and we enjoyed hearing all about the area and its occupants.
The tour was about 2h and it was the only thing we did today. When we came back to the hotel we got the absolute sweetest present from Mahesh. He framed a collage of us in Sri Lanka in a beautiful black frame. Incredibly thoughtful and we are so happy with it.
For the rest of the day, until it’s time for dinner, we just chill in the room and play with our son. Tomorrow he has to sit still for a 10h flight back, so he needs a lot of attention today.
In the evening we end our dinners where it all started and return for food at Jhony’s Food. It’s located right next to our hotel this time, so it was convenient too.
We chatted with the waiter who served us the first night and it was the perfect ending of our holiday. We had the absolute best time in Sri Lanka.
Day 18: Flight Home, ending our 18-day family adventure
Today we are flying home. This holiday has flown by! Our flight is at 13:05 and we will be landing in London at 20:00 UK time.
Our son was truly amazing on this flight. He napped for 2h and the rest of the time he either watched cartoons on the airplane tv, played with his cars, had a couple strolls through the isle or ate. I was so impressed with him <3.
This time I did not take any games or activities for him on the plane because I know him well enough to know he would not use them. He got four small new cars for this holiday and that is all he wanted to play with.
We will definitely be back at some point to the see south of the island, but for now; goodbye and thank you for all the kindness and amazing food.
Sri Lanka Family Travel FAQ
Is Sri Lanka suitable for traveling with a baby/ toddler?
We found it very doable! With some planning and flexibility, traveling with a toddler was actually easier than expected — most hotels were welcoming, the people are friendly, and we could pace each day to suit naps and breaks.
How long do you need in Sri Lanka?
Our 18-day itinerary worked well for us because we weren’t rushing, but you could see the highlights in 10–12 days if needed. With a young child, having a little extra time for downtime really makes the trip more enjoyable.
Is Sri Lanka expensive for families?
Overall, Sri Lanka felt affordable, especially for accommodation and food. We normally rent a car and drive ourselves and found that renting a driving (who was with us for the entire trip) was cheaper than renting just the car in Jamaica. Our driver was absolutely lovely and it was totally worth it with a baby. Most local restaurants were cheap and delicious.
What’s the best time to visit Sri Lanka?
We went in October, and it was warm but manageable. The east coast (Pasikudah, Trincomalee) was great then. If you’re traveling with kids, consider the weather for the coast you plan to visit. Sri Lanka has two distinct monsoons that hit the country at different times of the year and in different regions
Any tips for traveling with a baby in Sri Lanka?
Bring lightweight clothes, sun protection, and a baby carrier for temple visits or hikes. Plan travel days around nap times, and don’t overpack your schedule — we learned that sometimes just enjoying the hotel or a local walk made the day perfect.
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